For me personally, I just cut out my image by free selecting the render, then inverting the selection and just deleting the background. Takes longer but you can be as precise as you want with it. Using a background removal tool in another app first usually works just as well, I just like the freedom of being able to cut out or leave some things in from time to time.
For color swaps I also just use the free select tool to pick out the sections I want to colorize. Utilizing the + select and - select options on the tool are a great help; using the addition part to just keep adding more parts that I want to colorize, and the subtract part if I want to select the whole jersey first then cut out the numbers for example. It can be a pain and there are probably betters ways but I found it to be much more reliable than using fuzzy select or color select which can leave some 'residue' of the old color very easily and make it tough to fix without having to redo it.
I haven't heard of the resynthesizer add-on - I'll have to look into that. Would be a nice time saver.
For logos on front facing helmets, I use the transform tool on GIMP. I just mess with it a bunch until it looks like it is facing forward and put it where it looks like it should go on the helmet. It usually hangs off the back of the helmet which obviously you don't want. So, I hide the logo layer and use the select tool to select the helmet. Then I invert the selection and go back to the logo layer. From there I just use the eraser and erase everything as the selection stops you from deleting the part that is on the helmet. After that it looks fairly natural. Here's an example in one of my gfx of a couple forward facing logos on helmets:
![[Image: S32Captains.png?width=1055&height=609]](https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/813516004993925163/905625569578848316/S32Captains.png?width=1055&height=609)
A couple other tips I have for blending logos on helmets: First, depending on how you size and position the logo, make sure you make an extra layer where you copy and paste a free selection of the strap and sometimes the facemask to layer on top of the logo so the logo looks more like it is actually on the helmet. Second, use the blur tool on the edges of the logo a little bit to help it blend into the helmet, and use the Dodge/Burn tool to help it blend with the lighting - dodge tool on the spots where it looks like the light is hitting the helmet, and the burn tool on the darker parts. That will further help it look completely natural on the helmet.
Hope this will help you!
For color swaps I also just use the free select tool to pick out the sections I want to colorize. Utilizing the + select and - select options on the tool are a great help; using the addition part to just keep adding more parts that I want to colorize, and the subtract part if I want to select the whole jersey first then cut out the numbers for example. It can be a pain and there are probably betters ways but I found it to be much more reliable than using fuzzy select or color select which can leave some 'residue' of the old color very easily and make it tough to fix without having to redo it.
I haven't heard of the resynthesizer add-on - I'll have to look into that. Would be a nice time saver.
For logos on front facing helmets, I use the transform tool on GIMP. I just mess with it a bunch until it looks like it is facing forward and put it where it looks like it should go on the helmet. It usually hangs off the back of the helmet which obviously you don't want. So, I hide the logo layer and use the select tool to select the helmet. Then I invert the selection and go back to the logo layer. From there I just use the eraser and erase everything as the selection stops you from deleting the part that is on the helmet. After that it looks fairly natural. Here's an example in one of my gfx of a couple forward facing logos on helmets:
A couple other tips I have for blending logos on helmets: First, depending on how you size and position the logo, make sure you make an extra layer where you copy and paste a free selection of the strap and sometimes the facemask to layer on top of the logo so the logo looks more like it is actually on the helmet. Second, use the blur tool on the edges of the logo a little bit to help it blend into the helmet, and use the Dodge/Burn tool to help it blend with the lighting - dodge tool on the spots where it looks like the light is hitting the helmet, and the burn tool on the darker parts. That will further help it look completely natural on the helmet.
Hope this will help you!
![[Image: StarkComicCOL.png?width=1118&height=676]](https://media.discordapp.net/attachments/813516004993925163/969363218738872330/StarkComicCOL.png?width=1118&height=676)
